Sears GT18 replacement drive axle

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Sears GT18 replacement drive axle

I have a sears gt18 with a broken transmission. The axle broke off at the differential gear. I'm looking for a replacement axle, but there are a bunch of different types. My transmission has powder metal gears, 6 pinion differential and splined shafts, and the shaft is separate from the gear. I have seen some axles on ebay that have the gear welded to the shaft https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sears-Tract...AAAOSw1WJZM2q6. I assume these are the steel cut gears. Will these be compatible with my transmission?

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Caption This! 9-2-18

:tango_face_surprise :tango_face_surprise :tango_face_surprise :tango_face_surprise

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Bolens QT17 Transaxle

Hi all,
I have a Bolens Qt17 with a Eaton hyro transaxle and have notice that I have abit of play in the right side axle.

From the info provided in the manuals I have read something about adding shims if the play in the trans axle is greater than .003, might not be my problem, not sure.

Approx play is about 80 thou.

If this isn't normal and requires repairs, What has actually worn out?

New to me x590 oil question

We just got a year old 2017 John Deere x590 from a family friend with 53 hours on it, included were a bunch of pre purchased blades filters and oil. With it was 6qts of Torq Guard 30wt oil and looking through the manual and online it seems to specify the Turf Guard 10w-30, or Plus-4 but nothing mentioned about straight 30wt. Now we have a stand alone snowblower for the winter so this will really just be a summer mower for us, but since there’s 3 years of warranty left I wanted to see if it would be an issue running an oil wt that’s not specified in any literature for my machine. I know enough that it will operate just great on 30wt at the spring/summer temps we use it at and has been by the previous owner but for reasons of warranty and such would there be an arguement to switch to 10w30? I was also wondering about the factory fill low viscosity hy-gard 20d hydro fluid I noticed that it’s the one recommended and the write up on it states it’s good up to 86f but it’s been used well above that temp this summer a few times, would it make sense to go with the jd20c formula next time? I’m in Ontario Canada but we’ve had a hot summer, just wanting opinions on what’s commonly done with these machines, enjoying it a lot so far. Thanks in advance for the opinions.

2011 X540 or 2007 X720

Just when I thought I was set on buying an X540, I came across an X720 which might be available for a little more.
Bottom line:
2011 X540 with almost 1000 hours (trying to get more maintenance info from the past several years)
2007 X720 with almost 1500 hours. $500-$600 more
Both with 54" deck

Any comments? I will use tractor for home acreage (2 acres). Some slopes and at times wet. Should I be afraid of the 1500 hours? Is the 2007 closer to more maintenance issues? Using it mostly to mow, light yard/garden work, and potential plowing in the winter (New England). Is the 720 a much better grade of machine? Wrestling with this one and may need to make a decision this weekend.

Possible issues with different jug/valve

I wanted to start a new thread about this jug switch-out because I headlined the previous post about it ( the down the crapper one) when I was pretty upset and it just sounds awful and I hate to see it every time I go there, I hope this is OK w/everyone. One of life's rules, dont go to the store hungry and dont get on computer when mad.
Anyhow I have a bunch of pics of the jug from LI parts donor that Im planning on putting on the L but one side of the thing looks like something could be wrong with it.
Not a very good description I know but I dont know what else to call it. I think that one of the valves prolly isnt working right if at all and I say that just because things look different with it.
As can be seen in sum pics one side of the top of the cylinder is pretty rough with carbon build-up but I did clean the top of one of the valves but dont remember if I cleaned the surface of half of it but it looks like its been cleaned or has it not is one problem I have. Has any of you ever seen one side of the top of a cyl look like that?
But the one valve in question just isnt kinda shiney as the other and just seems like it hasnt moved up & down like the other one has.
Im afraid I didnt check if its the exhaust or intake valve.
And also I hope these things are as tough as people say because it prolly wont hurt it but one of the 4 sides of the square part of jug/bore meet has a rough place on it like it has rubbed on something possibly but its in the pics to. Well for now this is about all I can describe about it and will have to let the pics tell some of it.
Anyhow for now I just bathed it in PB Blaster and put it up where I keep them in a 5 gal bucket wrapped in a towell.
Im hoping a cpl of you will say "Oh that thing is OK, just hit that valve w/a dead-blow hammer to free it up and it will be fine!"
But something tells me that wont quite happen that easily. lol.

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Hello

Hi everyone, i'm from south Jersey and I have a 1978 1872 cub hydro

Access to the TDC module on the 318?

I recently purchased my 318 used.

I'd like to clean/exercise the 10 pin molex connector on the wiring harness for the TDC. I'm not sure how to get at it. It looks like I have to remove the battery and the battery holder.

Also my seat switch isn't working and I'm guessing someone defeated that. I'd like for it to work again if it only functions when the PTO is engaged. I'd like to get on and off the tractor without the engine shutting down to pick up a stick or do something else. I also would like for it to shut the tractor down if I came off the seat with the PTO engaged.

JD 318 operator manual?

There's seems to be lots of service/tech. Repair manuals on the net for 318's to view/download. But I'm having a hard time finding a operators manual? Anyone have a link or file? You would make my day! Thanks so much!