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John Deere 3320 Front PTO output
Good afternoon, I have a John Deere 3320 Tractor. I have a leak of transmission hydroponic fluid where the output shaft housing meets the transmission housing. I have been looking, and looking and can not find the gasket that goes there. I can always use gasket maker, but wanted to get the correct part if I could. I have the blown up parts schematic but non, that I have found, show that part. Can someone point me in the right direction to where to find the gasket and or the part number. Thanks for all your help and time. Scott
Backup Alarm Wiring Harness
Hi,
I've got a new JD 4052R. It has a backup alarm. I'm trying to wire in my own reverse light that comes on when the reverse alarm sounds. I hate cutting into factory wiring harnesses thought. Does anyone know what type of wiring harness this is?
Thanks.
I've got a new JD 4052R. It has a backup alarm. I'm trying to wire in my own reverse light that comes on when the reverse alarm sounds. I hate cutting into factory wiring harnesses thought. Does anyone know what type of wiring harness this is?
Thanks.
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my 455 Alternator upgrade
Hey guys. This is my version of the alternator upgrade on a 2001 455.
First I want to thank member Dan33Klein who did this conversion a few years back. His thread on this is in the technical section and also member PEIDeerefan who was kind enough to mail me the connector pigtail off of a faulty external regulator that he had.
My 455 has the more typical Stator style 20 amp alternator with the external regulator and I wanted to upgrade to a 40 amp Denso style with the internal regulator. The current set up works fine but I am installing a new-to-me Femco cab for the winter which already has additional lights and a wiper motor and am wanting to add a small electric heater. So this is why I decided to change to a higher output alternator to a handle more accessories.
My goal was to do this install as "factory" looking as possible without altering or splicing any of the factory wiring. This ended up 100% plug and play. It could be reverted back at any time.
Parts list:
Alternator (ebay)
Relay plug and empty terminals (Amazon)
Alternator pos terminal boot (Amazon)
SPST Relay (local automotive supply)
Other misc. wire, terminals, shrink tube I had at home already
Total cost was around $100 US with the Alternator accounting for about $80 of this.
Original Stator style 20 amp installed.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Comparison between the two.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Denso style installed (the upper mounting ear goes on the opposite side of the adjustment bracket compared to the 20 amp style)
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Denso style with charge and ground wire installed
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Terminals jumpered on the factory regulator connector so I could test function (this got the 12v switched to the alternator for reference)
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Parts to make "factory" looking wiring / relay to send both 12v reference to Alternator as well as send signal to battery light on dash all within the factory w/h connection for the external regulator.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Installed in place of the original external regulator. For me it was easiest to mount by removing the now unused regulator.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Most important is the wiring picture I made after going blind reading wiring schematics. It made it a lot easier to summarize and do the install in the garage. This should answer most questions.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
Items of note:
There are many models out there with a 20 amp system that use the external regulator part number AM126304 so although my wiring colours are for my era 455 I would have to think that the connector terminal cavities I have shown in my wiring picture would be the same for those other models. Check for yourself though if you decide to do this. NO guarantee.
I'm not going to explain the way the dash light functions between the two set ups. Dan33Klein did a good job of that in his thread but most of the relay wiring is to get the dash light working properly. If you didn't care about that, the install is much easier. Add a charge wire to the alternator, plug in the factory 'T' connection, jumper the two terminals shown in the one picture above. Start the tractor and test the battery for a charge voltage. The dash light would never light up no matter the charging condition.
The 40 amp alternator is part number AM877740 (Denso 100211-45930). The reality is that any 93mm Denso alternator will bolt in. The key is the pulley diameter (69 mm) and that the internal regulator is clocked at 12:00 so the factory connector reaches. I found a 60 amp Denso alternator with these same 2 criteria so of course I got that one so I had more available draw for a larger heater. It was only $10 more. It has an equivalent Yanmar part number so it was used on other Yanmar engines. That 60 amp Denso part number is 101211-2590.
Maybe this thread will encourage others who are contemplating this change to take the plunge. It is pretty easy once you wrap your head around the wiring diagrams.
First I want to thank member Dan33Klein who did this conversion a few years back. His thread on this is in the technical section and also member PEIDeerefan who was kind enough to mail me the connector pigtail off of a faulty external regulator that he had.
My 455 has the more typical Stator style 20 amp alternator with the external regulator and I wanted to upgrade to a 40 amp Denso style with the internal regulator. The current set up works fine but I am installing a new-to-me Femco cab for the winter which already has additional lights and a wiper motor and am wanting to add a small electric heater. So this is why I decided to change to a higher output alternator to a handle more accessories.
My goal was to do this install as "factory" looking as possible without altering or splicing any of the factory wiring. This ended up 100% plug and play. It could be reverted back at any time.
Parts list:
Alternator (ebay)
Relay plug and empty terminals (Amazon)
Alternator pos terminal boot (Amazon)
SPST Relay (local automotive supply)
Other misc. wire, terminals, shrink tube I had at home already
Total cost was around $100 US with the Alternator accounting for about $80 of this.
Original Stator style 20 amp installed.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Comparison between the two.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Denso style installed (the upper mounting ear goes on the opposite side of the adjustment bracket compared to the 20 amp style)
[IMG]
[/IMG]Denso style with charge and ground wire installed
[IMG]
[/IMG]Terminals jumpered on the factory regulator connector so I could test function (this got the 12v switched to the alternator for reference)
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Parts to make "factory" looking wiring / relay to send both 12v reference to Alternator as well as send signal to battery light on dash all within the factory w/h connection for the external regulator.
[IMG]
[/IMG][IMG]
[/IMG]Installed in place of the original external regulator. For me it was easiest to mount by removing the now unused regulator.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Most important is the wiring picture I made after going blind reading wiring schematics. It made it a lot easier to summarize and do the install in the garage. This should answer most questions.
[IMG]
[/IMG]Items of note:
There are many models out there with a 20 amp system that use the external regulator part number AM126304 so although my wiring colours are for my era 455 I would have to think that the connector terminal cavities I have shown in my wiring picture would be the same for those other models. Check for yourself though if you decide to do this. NO guarantee.
I'm not going to explain the way the dash light functions between the two set ups. Dan33Klein did a good job of that in his thread but most of the relay wiring is to get the dash light working properly. If you didn't care about that, the install is much easier. Add a charge wire to the alternator, plug in the factory 'T' connection, jumper the two terminals shown in the one picture above. Start the tractor and test the battery for a charge voltage. The dash light would never light up no matter the charging condition.
The 40 amp alternator is part number AM877740 (Denso 100211-45930). The reality is that any 93mm Denso alternator will bolt in. The key is the pulley diameter (69 mm) and that the internal regulator is clocked at 12:00 so the factory connector reaches. I found a 60 amp Denso alternator with these same 2 criteria so of course I got that one so I had more available draw for a larger heater. It was only $10 more. It has an equivalent Yanmar part number so it was used on other Yanmar engines. That 60 amp Denso part number is 101211-2590.
Maybe this thread will encourage others who are contemplating this change to take the plunge. It is pretty easy once you wrap your head around the wiring diagrams.
Mower Deck Gear Case
Please check the For Sale subforum. I am listing an Ariens 53121200 mower gear case which was removed from a brand new Ariens 831031 deck with less than 10 hours run time. It which fits all Gravely/Ariens 48/60” mower decks.
Hummers are back
The pics are not that good but we had to add another feeder for all the Humming birds that came this year. The smallest of the bunch is a ruby throated we call Pee Wee that has come for a few years now and he guards a single feeder from the others so he can dine by himself at leisure. He is always the first to come and last to leave.
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Caption This! 9-12-18
:tango_face_surprise :tango_face_surprise :tango_face_surprise :tango_face_surprise
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new member
Hi. Decided to try this out. Got about 9.5 acres with two tractors that I use almost daily. A 1997 New Holland 1530 with a mower, loader, rake, box scraper, tiller, tree planter and 2 gang plow. Then there is the ancient John Deere 212. Unfortunately as of this morning, I was told that the engine is shot! Fixing - if it is possible to fix will be very expensive and probably almost not worth it. Have tried looking on line for 212's or 214's with decent engines in the locale but to no avail. So looks like I will be purchasing a new deere. Somewhere in the x500 series.Wish I could afford more, but don't think that will happen!! The finance officer said no!! lol lol
2082 vibration
my 2082 started to have a slight vibration seems to be in the the drive train, it is getting worst, any ideas? nothing to do with the mower deck
JD 332 vibration
I have a 1987 332. It seems to be getting rougher and rougher. The engine is smooth, but sitting on it even with a suspension seat it seems to have a vibration that increases with RPM.
I'm thinking it may the the driveshaft u-joints. My problem is I have a hard cab and the belly screen that is sandwiched between the hard cab mounting bracket. So no real easy way of checking the u-joints.
If I can get at them, is there a easy test to see if they are the problem? Any other ideas on vibrations?
I'm thinking it may the the driveshaft u-joints. My problem is I have a hard cab and the belly screen that is sandwiched between the hard cab mounting bracket. So no real easy way of checking the u-joints.
If I can get at them, is there a easy test to see if they are the problem? Any other ideas on vibrations?
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