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Grill table build
This turned out too nice not to share. I had been searching for a nice set up for my charcoal grill and after a lot of procrastinating I decided to build a table.
Its 4 ft wide by about 3 ft deep and made out of pine. I hit it with a torch to burn the wood grain and then stained it with cedar deck staining. a normal 22 inch grill slides right into the side. I have 180 pounds of bricks on the bottom to counter weigh the 9 ft umbrella. I cut up some iron fencing to enclose the bottom area, added 5 coat hooks for grilling tools and of coarse a bottle opener :tango_face_grin:
Its 4 ft wide by about 3 ft deep and made out of pine. I hit it with a torch to burn the wood grain and then stained it with cedar deck staining. a normal 22 inch grill slides right into the side. I have 180 pounds of bricks on the bottom to counter weigh the 9 ft umbrella. I cut up some iron fencing to enclose the bottom area, added 5 coat hooks for grilling tools and of coarse a bottle opener :tango_face_grin:
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Tubes vs. Tubeless and Tread questions
Hi, I've got a X300r that is used on a pretty flat 1acre lot. I had two questions;
1. Does having a lot of tread of your front tyres make any difference, and does it make it less prone to punctures?
2. I just got a puncture and wondered if I should get new tyres and go tubeless again, any benefits vs. Tubes?
Attachment 2329001
Attachment 2329003
Thanks
Sent from my SM-G920F using MyTractorForum Free App mobile app
1. Does having a lot of tread of your front tyres make any difference, and does it make it less prone to punctures?
2. I just got a puncture and wondered if I should get new tyres and go tubeless again, any benefits vs. Tubes?
Attachment 2329001
Attachment 2329003
Thanks
Sent from my SM-G920F using MyTractorForum Free App mobile app
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Banana Plate Getting it Right
The banana plate, or loader directional control. It is both complicated and simple. Well, simpler once I share my findings.
Do not even get the tools together until you buy any and all the parts that may be worn. If you have the old style, original plate, buy the new kit. If you started with the new plate, consider replacement bushings. I cannot stress enough that on all of the Case Ingersoll travel controls, 1/16” of play matters, a lot. Your goal must be as close to zero as possible.
I replaced all my parts years ago on my 644. I was green at the time and had not yet discovered the 1/16” matters thing. So, my diligence was low as was my forward performance. Finally, it bothered me enough to look again.
To start the parts need to be installed. This is how I did it. To prepare, get the tractor off the ground. Jack and support the rear first. Then obviously raising the front is easy, just make sure it is supported. If you have hoses connected to the mid-lift circuit consider if it will be easier to remove them. The brake pedal spring has to come off.
The two bolts and nuts are 5/16” x 1”. They must be changed out to both flanged and self-locking. This key tip makes it easy to loosen and tighten the nuts from under the tractor as you are adjusting the plate mount. I started with the rod off that bolts to pedal rod. The order of install I used was to install the mount, the link to the TCV (check my mod bellow), the follower is on the lever. I get the banana plate in position and this is when I install the rod. Insert the control link into the pivot hole and fasten with the cam in the slot. Attach the spring to the rod. The lever and cam follower need to have the slop taken care of by adjusting the thickness of the washers between the cotter pin hole and the banana plate, though not as crucial as the TCV link.
This adjustment needs to be spot on. That means you will most likely be readjusting it several times. I used flanged hardware a lot. It just saves so many headaches and is well worth the extra money. You can loosen and tighten from one side. I use an adjustable wrench and use it to move the plate at the end where the mount is.
What the needed goal is here is adjusting the plane of the plate to exactly matching the plane of the cam follower flange on the direction control lever. If the adjustment is off the cam follower will jam when in the end and or premature wear as the pressure is not being fully shared on the follower. The slots in the mounting plate allow up and down and twist. The adjustments are done when you can move the lever in both directions and the plate and follower are fully engaged at both ends.
What I found was that the stock, brand new link that goes the valve and the center pivot slides in the pivot hole when you have the standard washer and cotter pin. To solve this you can stack washers or get a thicker one. I went a novel way. It is a 5/16” rod of rather soft metal. I threaded the end with a die. I used a center lock nut and the rod was locked into the pivot. A twist came, at least on mine. The pivot bushing was being pulled up and out of the plate. I had to add a 3/8” washer. It is oversized for the pivot ball to be able to pivot and the holder to be pulled flush to the plate. The result, all built in play eliminated at this point at least.
The next thing I have learned or discovered is to adjust the travel control linkage you need to jack up one rear tire and block the other wheels. Run the engine and check to see where you are at. Shut the engine off and adjust. Then keep repeating until you have it right. This gives you an easy indicator by seeing the tire spin while in the air. I am not going to say whether you can just have the engine running while you are under the tractor. I will say though that you can reach the key from your prone position rather easily.
On a loader, you do the above and adjust for forward only. The shorter the link, the more forward action will be applied to the valve. So, you will be shortening the link until the tire starts turning and then back it off until it stops. You have to have the lever in neutral and then forward both on a loader to get a complete pass with no wheel spin.
I now have a much better driving old tractor. Good luck.
Do not even get the tools together until you buy any and all the parts that may be worn. If you have the old style, original plate, buy the new kit. If you started with the new plate, consider replacement bushings. I cannot stress enough that on all of the Case Ingersoll travel controls, 1/16” of play matters, a lot. Your goal must be as close to zero as possible.
I replaced all my parts years ago on my 644. I was green at the time and had not yet discovered the 1/16” matters thing. So, my diligence was low as was my forward performance. Finally, it bothered me enough to look again.
To start the parts need to be installed. This is how I did it. To prepare, get the tractor off the ground. Jack and support the rear first. Then obviously raising the front is easy, just make sure it is supported. If you have hoses connected to the mid-lift circuit consider if it will be easier to remove them. The brake pedal spring has to come off.
The two bolts and nuts are 5/16” x 1”. They must be changed out to both flanged and self-locking. This key tip makes it easy to loosen and tighten the nuts from under the tractor as you are adjusting the plate mount. I started with the rod off that bolts to pedal rod. The order of install I used was to install the mount, the link to the TCV (check my mod bellow), the follower is on the lever. I get the banana plate in position and this is when I install the rod. Insert the control link into the pivot hole and fasten with the cam in the slot. Attach the spring to the rod. The lever and cam follower need to have the slop taken care of by adjusting the thickness of the washers between the cotter pin hole and the banana plate, though not as crucial as the TCV link.
This adjustment needs to be spot on. That means you will most likely be readjusting it several times. I used flanged hardware a lot. It just saves so many headaches and is well worth the extra money. You can loosen and tighten from one side. I use an adjustable wrench and use it to move the plate at the end where the mount is.
What the needed goal is here is adjusting the plane of the plate to exactly matching the plane of the cam follower flange on the direction control lever. If the adjustment is off the cam follower will jam when in the end and or premature wear as the pressure is not being fully shared on the follower. The slots in the mounting plate allow up and down and twist. The adjustments are done when you can move the lever in both directions and the plate and follower are fully engaged at both ends.
What I found was that the stock, brand new link that goes the valve and the center pivot slides in the pivot hole when you have the standard washer and cotter pin. To solve this you can stack washers or get a thicker one. I went a novel way. It is a 5/16” rod of rather soft metal. I threaded the end with a die. I used a center lock nut and the rod was locked into the pivot. A twist came, at least on mine. The pivot bushing was being pulled up and out of the plate. I had to add a 3/8” washer. It is oversized for the pivot ball to be able to pivot and the holder to be pulled flush to the plate. The result, all built in play eliminated at this point at least.
The next thing I have learned or discovered is to adjust the travel control linkage you need to jack up one rear tire and block the other wheels. Run the engine and check to see where you are at. Shut the engine off and adjust. Then keep repeating until you have it right. This gives you an easy indicator by seeing the tire spin while in the air. I am not going to say whether you can just have the engine running while you are under the tractor. I will say though that you can reach the key from your prone position rather easily.
On a loader, you do the above and adjust for forward only. The shorter the link, the more forward action will be applied to the valve. So, you will be shortening the link until the tire starts turning and then back it off until it stops. You have to have the lever in neutral and then forward both on a loader to get a complete pass with no wheel spin.
I now have a much better driving old tractor. Good luck.
Hey everyone!
New joiner here! Wisconsin boy transplanted to Minnesota. Just recently purchased 20 acres and building a house. I’m about 1 month from moving in. I currently own a 9n and just had the pleasure of buying a 961D! It is being delivered Sunday! I have about 1000’ if driveway and figured I needed more muscle to handle the snow. I love my 9n but seems to lack the power I need. Take it easy on me I’m still green when it comes to tractors. Hope I can lean on you guys from time to time for knowledge.
Oh yeah I just got married too. Forgot to mention that.
Electricdubb
Oh yeah I just got married too. Forgot to mention that.
Electricdubb
Hey
I just signed up for your site, lots of wisdom here. I enjoy working on my lawn tractors, and my tractor. I have an mtd 960, mtd 990, International 434 with loader, John Deere 1026R, and a backhoe I made from scratch. I am currently making a loader for the 1026R, as I dont want to pay the 5 grand to John Deere for one.
Getting Tractors Ready for Mom - 165 & 185
The 160-185 series have been pretty affordable in my area so I picked up a few for my mom this past year. I wanted to stick with hydros. All-in-all great little tractors. I am a little partial to the flathead engine in the 165 but like the hydro a tad better in the 185 (Sundstrand model). I repainted the 165 but the 185 is all original - just buffed the paint a bit. I got the 185 for $150 because it did not run. The owner was driving it and it screeched to a halt so he pushed it to the garage. A few years later he got tired of looking at it and sold it to me. Turns out the drain plug in the transaxle was missing. I put a new one in and refilled it with oil and never looked back.
On both tractors I pulled the steering wheel and replaced it with a wheel that was more robust. Pulling the steering wheel is no easy task. While the wheel was out I also replaced the compression springs in the steering shaft. I also was able to get the rear wheels off. That isn't easy sometimes. I can't think of anything else I should mention on what to look out for. Just nice little tractors and I would not hesitate to recommend them.
On both tractors I pulled the steering wheel and replaced it with a wheel that was more robust. Pulling the steering wheel is no easy task. While the wheel was out I also replaced the compression springs in the steering shaft. I also was able to get the rear wheels off. That isn't easy sometimes. I can't think of anything else I should mention on what to look out for. Just nice little tractors and I would not hesitate to recommend them.
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Caption This! 8-15-18
:tango_face_surprise :tango_face_surprise :tango_face_surprise :tango_face_surprise
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Tractor trouble...
Problem: GT runs, but bogs down when mowing in high gear. It will eventually sputter itself out completely. Starts up immediately, and stays running, even with deck engaged. It can run longer in low gear, but still struggles and dies up hills. It seems like it's starving for fuel.
Background: This tractor is a 1999 Huskee GT 20/46 that has been repowered with a Briggs 42E707-2631-E1 19hp engine. I picked it up recently and have no idea of it's history. As far as I know, it was sitting in a barn and used to mow 1/3 acre a couple times per year.
I gave it a tune up on Monday (Plugs, Oil, Air Filter, Fuel Filter.) I also replaced the fuel line from the filer to the carb, but not the long one from the tank to the filter.
I didn't have time to run it because it was 10:30 by the time I was finished putting it back together. One peculiarity of the repower was that whoever did it didn't keep the original engine pulley with the machine. When I bought it, the brake wouldn't ever truly disengage the belt because the 1/2" pulley was just a little wider. I replaced the pulley and belt, as well as the deck belt. Brand new gas.
It will run just fine under no load, but quickly bogs down when mowing uphill in high gear, and slowly bogs down mowing level ground in high. It will mow in low gear, but barely has enough power to get out of it's own way.
Any ideas?
Background: This tractor is a 1999 Huskee GT 20/46 that has been repowered with a Briggs 42E707-2631-E1 19hp engine. I picked it up recently and have no idea of it's history. As far as I know, it was sitting in a barn and used to mow 1/3 acre a couple times per year.
I gave it a tune up on Monday (Plugs, Oil, Air Filter, Fuel Filter.) I also replaced the fuel line from the filer to the carb, but not the long one from the tank to the filter.
I didn't have time to run it because it was 10:30 by the time I was finished putting it back together. One peculiarity of the repower was that whoever did it didn't keep the original engine pulley with the machine. When I bought it, the brake wouldn't ever truly disengage the belt because the 1/2" pulley was just a little wider. I replaced the pulley and belt, as well as the deck belt. Brand new gas.
It will run just fine under no load, but quickly bogs down when mowing uphill in high gear, and slowly bogs down mowing level ground in high. It will mow in low gear, but barely has enough power to get out of it's own way.
Any ideas?
Z540r seat cover
Hello-
New to the MTF site. Curious if anyone knows where I can get a seat cover for a JD 540R ztrax....has the 21” seat.
Thanks
New to the MTF site. Curious if anyone knows where I can get a seat cover for a JD 540R ztrax....has the 21” seat.
Thanks
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