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317 repower and new driveshaft
Picked up this beauty a while ago and finally got it back together. Surprise of surprises the engine was toast. So I had this Kohler sitting around and put it in. Had a wicked vibration. Tracked it down to the driveshaft. Was going to make a new driveshaft but went into Princess Auto and found a $200.00 driveshaft on clearance for $50.00 with a 1 inch round keyed end to fit the engine and after some searching found a package of 5/8 to 1 inch bushings to fit the tranny end. Bob's your Uncle. Drill a hole through the end for the 1/4 roll pin and she is in. Super not much clearance but doesn't seem to touch anything.
Before anyone climbs on the no jackstands at the front I had to take them out to get the legs of my cherry picker in and they are big enough that they are too wide. Only the 2 rear engine mount bolts have to be done up from underneath and I did them when it was back on its wheels.
Before anyone climbs on the no jackstands at the front I had to take them out to get the legs of my cherry picker in and they are big enough that they are too wide. Only the 2 rear engine mount bolts have to be done up from underneath and I did them when it was back on its wheels.
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Show Us Your Yard Toys
Here my yard mowing plowing digging toys. Love them both. 640hrs on the JD 5083 and 18.7hrs on the XT3GSX.
I have a lot of fun with these, when I'm bored they are there ready for playing or work both do an excellent job at what they do! The big one is paid for but the little one isn't its 10 days old. LOL
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I have a lot of fun with these, when I'm bored they are there ready for playing or work both do an excellent job at what they do! The big one is paid for but the little one isn't its 10 days old. LOL
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JD 317 with Excavator Attachment
It took a few weeks to get everything fine tuned, but here is the finished product!
Its first job was to excavate the foundation for work on my DIY egress window. Took less than 2 hours to excavate, add the concrete anchors, and fill/grade in with the bucket. Before I set up this machine, I dug the window well by hand. It took over a week of digging through clay!
Its first job was to excavate the foundation for work on my DIY egress window. Took less than 2 hours to excavate, add the concrete anchors, and fill/grade in with the bucket. Before I set up this machine, I dug the window well by hand. It took over a week of digging through clay!
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Fuel line size for a Kohler 18hp?
I was working on the engine of my 1618 last night and while changing the fuel filter, the fuel lines seemed like they could use some freshening up. The inside diameter appears to be 1/4" but the wall thickness was pretty thin, nowhere close to the 1/4" fuel line on the Cub Cadet I have.
Is the fuel line on the PK something different or is that just an older style of fuel line?
Vermin chewed the fuel line on the Cub Cadet, so if I'm going to be buying a few feet of it, I was going to get enough to do both tractors.
Thanks!
Is the fuel line on the PK something different or is that just an older style of fuel line?
Vermin chewed the fuel line on the Cub Cadet, so if I'm going to be buying a few feet of it, I was going to get enough to do both tractors.
Thanks!
Howdy Y'all From NC!
New, here for advice and to give some at the same time. Horse farm owner, lawn mower fixer, auto mechanic, auto body tech. Barn builder, you name it I probably do it.
Wife and I own and operate a successful non-profit horse and dog rescue. Run a boarding facility offering covered arena horse back riding and 300+acres of trails. I myself built a covered clear span 80x100 arena, with 14ft wings and 16ft office and tack room on the back side. With the eaves she measures 122ft long by 100ft wide. She is massive. Still a work in progress, but almost finished.
Here to offer advice if I can with lawn tractors or big boy tractors. I own a 1987 Ford 445A 7ft industrial bucket, 3pt with all the goodies, wish it had a PTO but can't be picky, great price wonderful machine, factory 48hp engine has been gone through, bored and sleeved to a 60hp. Shuttle shift so the wife can bop around if need be. All my implements are 6ft, massive stuff. The loader is by far one of the most powerful ones I've ever seen.
My zero turn is a 2006 Husqvarna Z4824, engine replaced with a powerful Briggs 24hp v twin, modified electrical for an automobile 12v. She's my baby, gets the job done and is the most reliable machine I've ever had.
2006 John Deere L100, unfortunately she needs a motor, in the process of finding a donor. Father in law purchased brand new, its just about flawless.
I've sold quite a few riders this season,
1994 Toro Wheel Horse 1338hxl 13hp 38in
1996 Murray 13hp 40in
2000 Ariens EZR1742, 20hp 42in
2003 Craftsman 917 16hp 42in
2003 John Deere L110 Automatic 17.5hp 42in
Just picked up a 2004 Craftsman DYT4000, 18.5hp Intek Plus 42in, has clutch problems. I'm hoping to get it running and sweep the engine onto my Deere. But have to figure out how to make it run without the clutch. The plug is messed up and the clutch I believe is engaged and not letting the engine turn over. I'll fart with it some, get it running and clean it up to swap it out.
Any who, I'm Brandon! Got any questions feel free to ask and vice versa I'll keep my eyes peeled on the topics and if I can help I will!
Wife and I own and operate a successful non-profit horse and dog rescue. Run a boarding facility offering covered arena horse back riding and 300+acres of trails. I myself built a covered clear span 80x100 arena, with 14ft wings and 16ft office and tack room on the back side. With the eaves she measures 122ft long by 100ft wide. She is massive. Still a work in progress, but almost finished.
Here to offer advice if I can with lawn tractors or big boy tractors. I own a 1987 Ford 445A 7ft industrial bucket, 3pt with all the goodies, wish it had a PTO but can't be picky, great price wonderful machine, factory 48hp engine has been gone through, bored and sleeved to a 60hp. Shuttle shift so the wife can bop around if need be. All my implements are 6ft, massive stuff. The loader is by far one of the most powerful ones I've ever seen.
My zero turn is a 2006 Husqvarna Z4824, engine replaced with a powerful Briggs 24hp v twin, modified electrical for an automobile 12v. She's my baby, gets the job done and is the most reliable machine I've ever had.
2006 John Deere L100, unfortunately she needs a motor, in the process of finding a donor. Father in law purchased brand new, its just about flawless.
I've sold quite a few riders this season,
1994 Toro Wheel Horse 1338hxl 13hp 38in
1996 Murray 13hp 40in
2000 Ariens EZR1742, 20hp 42in
2003 Craftsman 917 16hp 42in
2003 John Deere L110 Automatic 17.5hp 42in
Just picked up a 2004 Craftsman DYT4000, 18.5hp Intek Plus 42in, has clutch problems. I'm hoping to get it running and sweep the engine onto my Deere. But have to figure out how to make it run without the clutch. The plug is messed up and the clutch I believe is engaged and not letting the engine turn over. I'll fart with it some, get it running and clean it up to swap it out.
Any who, I'm Brandon! Got any questions feel free to ask and vice versa I'll keep my eyes peeled on the topics and if I can help I will!
Troy Bilt Self Propelled No Start
My father as a Troy Bilt self propelled mower which uses a Briggs and Stratton engine, Model 125K05.
This engine uses a primer bulb on the side of the air filter assy to force fuel into the carb for start up.
My dad has had trouble starting the mower for the past 2 seasons.
Last year the system would not prime so he used an air hose attached to his compressor to force air into the small hole in the primer bulb. The engine would usually start and then there were no further issues until the following week on the initial startup.
Last week, the compressed air start would not work.
In order to start it, he had to remove the air filter and squirt raw fuel into the carb to get it to start.
He also had to do this on each subsequent restart.
He has pulled the carb off the engine.
He took the carb apart and cleaned it in carb cleaner ( the old gunk 5 gallon pail stuff)!
He purchased a new kit and a new primer bulb.
He has blown out all the passages and reassembled the carb and installed it on the engine.
He can get it started by squirting fuel into the carb but same issue with subsequent restarts.
Using the primer bulb does not appear to work.
Any ideas on what to look for next?
Thanks for any assistance you may be able to provide.
JO
This engine uses a primer bulb on the side of the air filter assy to force fuel into the carb for start up.
My dad has had trouble starting the mower for the past 2 seasons.
Last year the system would not prime so he used an air hose attached to his compressor to force air into the small hole in the primer bulb. The engine would usually start and then there were no further issues until the following week on the initial startup.
Last week, the compressed air start would not work.
In order to start it, he had to remove the air filter and squirt raw fuel into the carb to get it to start.
He also had to do this on each subsequent restart.
He has pulled the carb off the engine.
He took the carb apart and cleaned it in carb cleaner ( the old gunk 5 gallon pail stuff)!
He purchased a new kit and a new primer bulb.
He has blown out all the passages and reassembled the carb and installed it on the engine.
He can get it started by squirting fuel into the carb but same issue with subsequent restarts.
Using the primer bulb does not appear to work.
Any ideas on what to look for next?
Thanks for any assistance you may be able to provide.
JO
Bought non-running 10.5hp mower - had no air filter. Recommended maintenance
Today I purchased a non running swisher rough cut pull behind mower for $380. Craigslist ad said it ran last year but didn't start after Winter and the seller seemed very honest and not the sketchy type.
Got it home and it has spark, fired with starter fluid and died. Briggs 10.5 hp vertical motor. Noticed air box has big crack so air filter was bypassed. I am assuming this is why it no longer runs.
Only had time to look at it for a few minutes today but tomorrow I plan to clean the carb, tape up air box, change oil check fuel is flowing and pumping. I am thinking it will fire right up after these steps.
Is there any other maintenance I should perform to clean out motor and reverse the effects of dirty air running through engine for God knows how long?
Thanks
Got it home and it has spark, fired with starter fluid and died. Briggs 10.5 hp vertical motor. Noticed air box has big crack so air filter was bypassed. I am assuming this is why it no longer runs.
Only had time to look at it for a few minutes today but tomorrow I plan to clean the carb, tape up air box, change oil check fuel is flowing and pumping. I am thinking it will fire right up after these steps.
Is there any other maintenance I should perform to clean out motor and reverse the effects of dirty air running through engine for God knows how long?
Thanks
JD 455 Electrical Issue - Low Voltage/Key Switch Board
Hi guys,
New to posting but have used this board many times to fix issues with my 1999 JD 455.
I'm currently diagnosing an electrical issues that seems to be related to my key switch and board, but could be something else as well.
Tractor ran normal then seemingly out of nowhere when trying to start, dash lights come on, go off, then dead. Turn key off, then back on, nothing, no dash lights, nothing.
Replaced key switch and board with correct module for my later model year, problem solved. After about 4 cuts, same thing, when trying to start, dash lights on as normal, solenoid fires as normal, then at some point before firing up it dies.
Replaced key switch and board again, fires right up. About 4 cuts later...yep, you guessed it, died again...and that's where I stand today.
Now, I did some more digging using my tech manual and found that my battery is good (12.8V) and good power all the way through the key switch board (control/fuse module) to terminals 2 and 6 without the next wiring harness attached (i.e., fuses good, key switch good). But when I connect the power connector harness to the control/fuse module (X1) the voltage across the system drops way down to about 3.8-4.0V then slowly climbs to about 6V after minutes of sitting there. My dash lights glow dim and a bit brighter but obviously not enough voltage to do start the tractor.
Anyway, could this be a short in the wires after the key switch board? A blown board (again?) or what?
Any help is much appreciated!
Thanks,
Brian
New to posting but have used this board many times to fix issues with my 1999 JD 455.
I'm currently diagnosing an electrical issues that seems to be related to my key switch and board, but could be something else as well.
Tractor ran normal then seemingly out of nowhere when trying to start, dash lights come on, go off, then dead. Turn key off, then back on, nothing, no dash lights, nothing.
Replaced key switch and board with correct module for my later model year, problem solved. After about 4 cuts, same thing, when trying to start, dash lights on as normal, solenoid fires as normal, then at some point before firing up it dies.
Replaced key switch and board again, fires right up. About 4 cuts later...yep, you guessed it, died again...and that's where I stand today.
Now, I did some more digging using my tech manual and found that my battery is good (12.8V) and good power all the way through the key switch board (control/fuse module) to terminals 2 and 6 without the next wiring harness attached (i.e., fuses good, key switch good). But when I connect the power connector harness to the control/fuse module (X1) the voltage across the system drops way down to about 3.8-4.0V then slowly climbs to about 6V after minutes of sitting there. My dash lights glow dim and a bit brighter but obviously not enough voltage to do start the tractor.
Anyway, could this be a short in the wires after the key switch board? A blown board (again?) or what?
Any help is much appreciated!
Thanks,
Brian
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